Friday, 23 November 2012

Fashion Designers...

Coco Chanel 1920 23/11/12
Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel aka Coco Chanel was born on the 19th August 1883 and died on the 10th January 1971 and was a well known French fashion designer and the founder of the well known brand Chanel. She is famous for her corseted silhouette and popularising the sportive, casual chic as the feminine standard clothing and figure in the post-war era. As a fashion creator, her influences extended to her collections and her couture clothing.
Her designs influenced her jewellery, handbags and fragrances. Her business has been very successful for the social elements as well as the clothing and the brand itself. During the War people questioned her work and generated controversy around her reputation. Her work is known as craftsmanship work and she is often compared to a highly intelligent business women. 1939 23/11/12
n 1931 she began designing garments for film and they sold millions, which was very profitable to her and she became more known within the film industry. She travelled to Hollywood to gain inspirations for her garments and how they can be displayed. She gained a lot of private clients and people, which gave Chanel more profit and famous with popularity and social contexts.

Her private clients were Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich who were also known as dangerous women within their films and the clothing they wore helped with that, which Chanel designed specifically.
Elsa Schiaparelli was a huge rivalry for Chanel and her business in 1935 employed 4000 people to progress the business to beat Schiaparelli as her Haute couture came under threat. The boyish look and the short skirts of the 20s flapper dress and girl seemed to disappear. Her designs for Hollywood began to be hit with failure, which wasn’t good for her reputation. Schiaparelli’s designs had significant playful references to surrealism, which sparked enthusiasm in the fashion world. 23/11/12

Chanel has a legacy as a designer she appeared in Harper’s Bazaar and they raved about them saying “The woman who hasn’t at least one Chanel is hopelessly out of fashion...This season the name Chanel is on the lips of every buyer.” Chanel’s famous corseted female silhouette still stands today and the designs are influenced by it. Her design aesthetic redefined the fashionable woman for the post WW I era.

The Chanel Suit was the innovative use of jersey fabric with a machine knit material manufactured for her by the firm Rodier and were used for the manufacture of the undergarments. Her wool jersey travelling suit consisted of a cardigan jacket, a pleated skirt and they were paired with a low-belted pullover top. They were worn with low-heeled shoes, which soon became the casual look in expensive women’s wear. 23/11/12

The little black dress was one of Chanel’s earliest pieces and has been around and well noticed ever since. The concept of the little black dress was to show women off and make them look chic and rich due to the fabrics it was made out of and how they were portrayed. They were often made out of thin silk, crepe de chine and often had long sleeves. Vogue stated that they believed this particular garment could easily be seen as a uniform for all women of taste.

The Chanel bag is still very popular nowadays and are still very stylish and chic. The influences came from colour blends and the creation of bags and their purposes as well as how they should look. They are also said to be used as uniform bags to go with the little black dress and other clothing she has created. The original versions of the bags were constructed of jersey or leather and the outside-featured hand stitched quilted designs, which were influenced by the clothing. The bags still retained their original shapes with a clasp and chain strap differing its initial forms. The Chanel fashion house is now run by Karl Lagerfeld and is still extremely successful and has enhance the Chanel legacy and her designs.

Harvey Nichols 23/11/12

23/11/12 - information
Coco Chanel: The Legend and the Life by Justine Picardie (7 Jul 2011) 

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