Friday, 23 November 2012

Fashion Designers...

Elsa Schiaparelli... 1937 23/11/12

Elsa Schiaparelli was a very famous Italian fashion designer who was well known for her revelry with Coco Chanel due to the different designs and the fabrics used for the decade and the types of styles which were in at the time as they both wanted to be the designer that stood out as being different but also understanding women’s rights and the social context of their work.
She is one of the most prominent people in the fashion industry between World War I and World War II. She began starting with knitwear and her designs were commonly influenced by surrealists and surrealism like her collaborations with Alberto Giacometti. Her famous clients for her clothing and actually representing her designs and work included Daisy Fellows and the famous actress Mae West. She found it difficult to adapt to the changes in fashion and the styles following World War II, which made her close her business in 1954.

Her fashion career is well known and is a very famous designer. She created jumpers displaying the surrealist movement, which was very popular in the time period. Her designs first appeared in Vogue, her business then became to take off with a pattern that gave the impression of a scarf, which had been wrapped around the wearer’s neck. Her sport collection called ‘pour le sport’ was then released and expanded the year after with new designed clothing such as bathing suits, skiwear and linen dresses to allow movement and freedom.

The divided skirt, a forerunner of shorts, shocked the tennis world when it was worn by Lili de Alvarez at Wimbledon in 1931. She later added an eveningwear collection in 1931 and her business got stronger and stronger and became better known. Depending on the time periods she was always in season and on trend and made sure her designs were up to date. When she returned to her new designing roles she found that fashions had changed with Christian Dior’s ‘New Look’ marking a rejection of the pre-war fashion.

Dada and surrealism art was known as modern art and it provided a significant source of inspirations for Elsa. She collaborated with a number of artists to develop and widen her knowledge for more imaginative design ideas to stand out and show the influences for the time period. She has quite often worked with Salvador Dali. Her work then started to become more recognisable and her most notable design was created. 23/11/12

In addition she created things such as the shoe hat and the tear dress, which represented her influence of Salvador Dali, which can be identified in the designs such as the lamb-cutlet hat along with a 1936-day suit with pockets representing a chest of drawers. She has also been referred as ‘the Italian artist who makes clothes’ by Coco Chanel as she is well noticeable for designing garments with an artist inspired background or theme to her work often with collaborations.
The designs which she created when she collaborated with Salvador Dali are said to be her best-known work. She did not name her designs but the four main garments from the collaboration are popularly known as:

The 1937 Lobster Dress, which was a simple silk evening dress with a crimson coloured waistband, which featured a large painted by Dali onto the skirt. The design work for Elsa was interpreted into a fabric print by the leading silk designer sache. It has been famously worn by Wallis Simpson and a series of photographs by Cecil Beaton.

The tear dress was a slender pale blue evening gown painted with a Dali design of rips and tears, worn with a thigh-length veil with ‘real’ tears carefully cut out and lined in pink and magenta, which was part of the 1938 February Circus Collection. The paint was created to represent the illusion or torn animal flesh.
Salvador Dali also helped her design the Skeleton dress for the circus collection. It was a black crepe dress, which consisted of quilting to create the padded ribs, spine and leg bones.



23/11/12 - information

Shocking life: the autobiography of Elsa Schiaparelli by Elsa Schiaparelli (26 Nov 2012)

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